Arles is a city on the Rhône River in the Provence region of southern France. It attracts visitors for two main reasons—its rich history as an important Roman colony and the story it tells as the place where Dutch impressionist painter Vincent Van Gogh resided. It’ here that he painted some of his most famous works during the final period of his life.  There are numerous sites of interest in Arles. Most of them are located within walking distance of each other. You can cover quite a bit of ground in just one day of sightseeing.  The Arles Tourist Information Office provides both guided tours as well as brochures containing maps with self-guided walking tours to follow on your own.

Roman History Sites

Julius Caesar founded Arles in 46 B.C. in the Roman colony of Gaul. Arles is the little Rome of Gaul.  Due to its location as a port city on the main road from Italy to Spain, Arles was a colony of great commercial importance to Rome, which is evident by the impressive historical sites. Today, you can visit several of these sites from the Roman (and Romanesque) era. It is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Sites. These include:

  • Amphitheater (Amphithéâtre d’Arles or Les Arènes d’Arles), rue du Cloître or 1 Rond-Point des Arènes
  • Roman Antique Theater (Théâtre antique d’Arles), rue du Cloître
  • Les Alyscamps (Roman necropolis), rue du Cloître
  • Roman Baths of Constantin (Thermes de Constantin), rue du Grand-Prieuré
  • Obelisk of Arles (l’Obélisque d’Arles ), place de la République
  • Cryptoporticus (Cryptoportiques), place de la République
  • Trophime Church and Cloister (Église & Cloître St-Trophime), place de la République

The Amphitheater

[Amphitheater (Amphithéâtre d’Arles or Les Arènes d’Arles), rue du Cloître or 1 Rond-Point des Arènes

The Roman Amphitheater is located in the heart of the city and is the largest, most important and best preserved ancient monument in Arles.  Built during the first century A.D., it was one of the largest amphitheaters in Gaul and could seat more than 20,000 spectators.  During the Middle Ages, it became a fortified town, including two churches and approximately 200 residential buildings.  The amphitheater was restored to its original use in the 19th century. It currently serves as a venue for various sporting events and entertainment, including bullfights.  It is also the scene in one of Van Gogh’s famous paintings (see Van Gogh Walk, below).

Roman Antique Theater (Théâtre antique d’Arles), rue du Cloître

The Roman Antique Theatre was built around 20 B.C. during the reign of Emperor Augustus and predates the nearby Amphitheater by nearly a century.  It was the site for free public entertainment, which included tragedies, comedies and pantomimes, often heavily permeated with a political message.  After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Amphitheater was gradually disassembled as a source of building materials.  Later, it was partially restored and now is a venue for festivals and performances.

More Outside of Arles France

Les Alyscamps (Roman necropolis), rue du Cloître

This Gallo-Roman necropolis is located on the southeastern edge of town. It is famously referred to by Dante in his Inferno.  These burial grounds were so important, that during the Middle Ages, the deceased were brought here from long distances to be laid to rest.  Along the tree-lined Allée des Tombeaux (Street of Graves), you will see only the plain stone coffins from the Middle Ages.  The more ornate remnants of the Roman times are now kept in the Musée d’Art Chrétien and in the Church of Saint-Trophime (see below).

Roman Baths of Constantin (Thermes de Constantin), rue du Grand-Prieuré

Every major Roman city had public baths as a center of exercise, hygiene and social activity, and Arles was no exception.  The Baths of Constantine, located near the banks of the Rhône River, date back to the 4th century A.D. and were once a grand 40,000 square-foot complex resembling a palace.  Currently, only about a third of the original structure remains.

An Obelisk

Obelisk of Arles (l’Obélisque d’Arles ), place de la République

In the center of town at the Place de la République stands an ancient Egyptian obelisk measuring 50 feet high and dating back to the 4th century B.C.  The Obelisk was previously stationed at the Roman Circus (Le Cirque Romain d’Arles), which no longer exists. This was a hippodrome for chariot races with a seating capacity for 20,000 spectators.

Cryptoporticus (Cryptoportiques), place de la République

This subterranean arcaded gallery consists of three double-parallel tunnels in the shape of a horseshoe.  It dates back to the 1st century B.C. and was originally built as the foundation of the Roman Forum. This extended from the present day Place du Forum to the Place de la République.  For a time, the Cryptoporticus was a prison but later was used mainly for storage.  Access the Cryptoporticus is through the Hôtel de Ville on the Place de la République.

St. Trophime Church and Cloister (Église & Cloître St-Trophime), place de la République

Finally, although the St. Trophime Church and Cloister are from the Middle Ages, not Roman times, it is another one of Arles’ UNESCO World Heritage Sites and one of its most important tourist attractions. Arles was an archbishopric from the 4th to 18th century A.D.  The 12th century Church of St Trophime represents classic Romanesque architecture.  Visitors come to see the representation of the Last Judgment on the Church portal. This is one of the finest examples of Romanesque sculpture in its impressive detail.  The adjacent Cloister features a pairs of pillars with beautifully intricate capitals, also revealing finely detailed sculptures of Biblical scenes.  Saint Trophime was the first bishop of Arles.

Van Gogh Sites

Vincent Van Gogh lived in Arles France for eighteen months between February 1988 and July 1980. This was shortly before he died in Auvers-sur-Oise in northern France. During this time he developed his signature style use of swirls, texture and vibrant color. This reflected the sunny, bright and calming environment of Provence.  Despite his continuing battle with mental illness, Van Gogh’s short time in Arles was to become one of his most prolific.  He produced more than 185 paintings, many of which have survived as his best known works.

Van Gogh Walk:  Visitors can see the actual scenes where Van Gogh painted some of his famous works. The Arles France Tourist Information Office provides this handy map that leads you along a trail of these sites, some of which overlap with the Roman sites described above:

(http://www.arlestourisme.com/assets/files/pdf/circuit_van_gogh_us.pdf)

  • Café Terrace at Night, Van Gogh Café, Place du Forum
  • The Trinquetaille Bridge
  • Starry Night Over the Rhône, Quai du Rhône
  • The Yellow House, Place Lamartine (periodic residence of Van Gogh, but the house no longer exists)
  • The Amphiteatre, Rue du Cloître (one of the Roman sites, described above)
  • The Old Mill, Rue Mireille
  • Les Alyscamps, Rue du Cloître (Roman necropolis, described above)
  • Public Park at Arles, Boulevard des Lices
  • Courtyard of the Hospital in Arles (Espace Van Gogh), Place du Docteur Félix-Rey
  • Langlois Bridge with Washerwomen, Route du Pont de Langlois (the bridge itself no longer exists)
  • Espace Van Gogh, Place du Docteur Félix-Rey

Espace Van Gogh

A short walk from the Tourist Information Office is the Espace Van Gogh. It is the former 16th century Hospital of Arles (Hôtel-Dieu-Saint-Espirit). This is where Van Gogh was treated after he cut off his ear. He also spent some time in there for mental health treatment and continued to create paintings representing that setting (included on the Van Gogh Walk, above). The hospital is now a cultural center for various exhibitions. The beautiful courtyard is open to the public for free.

Fondation Vincent van Gogh, 35ter rue du Docteur Fanton

Time permitting, you may want to visit this gallery. It is interesting both for its contemporary architectural design and its art exhibits.  The gallery hosts one or two exhibitions per year with a Van Gogh theme, including at least one Van Gogh masterpiece.  The building itself is worth a visit just to see the beautiful rooftop terrace and stained glass ceiling of the bookshop.

Arles Markets

Saturday Morning Market, Boulevard des Lices to the Boulevard Clemenceau

If you are in Arles France on a Saturday morning, you may want to pass through the massive street market. It is one of the largest and most beautiful outdoor markets in Provence.  Stretching more than a mile (2 kilometers), you will find all manner of local food products, including fruit and vegetables, bread, cheese, honey, meat, fish, flowers and spices.  Vendors will gladly give you a sample of something before you buy.  You can also peruse the large selection of clothing and shoes.

Flea Market (Foire à la Brocante), Boulevard des Lices

On the first Wednesday of the month, Arles hosts a flea market. There you can find all sorts of bargains and interesting items, including old pieces of furniture, paintings, old books, postcards, ornaments, jewelry, old linen, etc.  Note that vendors expect you to bargain, so always open the conversation with “What is your best price?”  At a minimum, you should offer to pay 10% less than the price. You should get an even better discount if you are purchasing several items together. 

Further Information:

Tourist Information Center (Office de tourisme d’Arles )

Esplanade Charles de Gaulle, Boulevard des Lices 13200 Arles, France

http://www.arlestourisme.com/en/

Most sites have an entrance fee.  The tourist office sells tickets, including discount packages that include entrance to most of the major sites.

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